Hoan Kiem Lake

The lake seen from atop of the City View Café

This lake is the beehive of Ha Noi's old quarter and is often used as a point of reference for easy orientation. It is considered by Hanoians to be the very heart of their capital, though it isn't the largest, nor the cleanest, nor the most awe-inspiring.

Very fancy tai chi for 6:00 am with red fans

As this was our second trip to the capital, we were already familiar with its ambiance, the "hot spots" surrounding it, but we had missed the 6:00am tai chi rituals that occurred every morning. Frankly, I was not that motivated to get myself out of bed to view or participate, so the first time, Chuck went solo with his camera and must have shot himself silly out of photos.

Naturally, after he returned and could hardly contain his excitement, it was very difficult to refuse going. And a great percentage of the 500 or so photos he had originally taken were blurred, so a do-over was in order. Of course, breakfast was on my mind, as this is something one simply cannot miss,-all you need to do is look at the spread laid at our beck and call every morning, and you know what I'm talking about. However, he mentioned that there was a French bakery where one could indulge right at lakeside. Ironically, we did go back to that very spot where we had lunch with a business associate of mine the next day. It was heavenly, and you could not get better views of the lake except if you were on a high floor, which we did as well.

So, what is it about this lake and the temple which seems to float on the water? and the inimitable red lacquered Huc bridge which appears to have been crafted from elves borne out of a fairy tale? Yes there is a legend which surrounds Hoan Kiem Lake, and it only adds to the romantic feeling as you meander through the walkways, and splendidly planted nooks and crannies all around this spot of water.

I bet as you look at these photos that you are wondering if this is really Viet Nam. The country has stopped being a "war" a long time ago. It is vibrant, fast, aromatic, colorful and extremely welcoming.

It's about a warrior called Le Loi and a golden turtle who swallowed his sword, as the turtle had the wisdom to realize that once the Chinese had been driven away, Le Loi didn't need his sword anymore. You'll find Le Loi to be a main artery in Sai Gon, and we'll get to that eventually. I'm sure many other things are named after this 15th century hero of the Viet Namese people.

It is reported that this lake was once part of the Red River (it's huge, and we were there up close when we went west of Ha Noi to a pottery village) and moved eastward through thousands of years' changes in the topography. Originally name Luc Thuy lake, it was changed to Ho Hoan Kiem, which means Lake of the Returned Sword, by Le Loi.

At the north end of the Lake, Lord Trinh Giang built Khanh Thuy shrine on Ngoc island, which was destroyed and rebuilt into a pagoda. It is now referred to as Ngoc Son Shrine. We did not go into the shrine, but did make our way through the huge portal, immediately after which there is a recessed spot onto a rocky hill where one can burn incense and offer a prayer or blessing. This time, I had the camera and took pictures as Chuck negotiated his way up, studied the movements of the woman before him, and repeated her motions and came down. The aroma of incense is quite intoxicating and adds to the spiritual feeling that reigns along the lake.

the lake at night

Occasionally one will see lovers sitting on a bench, but it's not very often, as Viet Namese, especially in the north, are not quite as emancipated as their brothers in the south, or the West for that matter. There is no public kissing whatsoever, but it is, without a doubt, one of the most romantic places to be and see. Also amazing and inspiring are the scores of older generation Viet Namese either exercising, or speaking French. The younger generation aspires to speak English and many to whom we talked dream of going to America. Hard to believe, isn't it?


soaking the sun at City View Café

Seeing the lake from up high is a treat, as I mentioned before. We were lucky to catch the sun in Ha Noi for lunch one day, and had the most exquisite spaghetti al fresco. The year before, we had dinner at Kim Quy, an elegant restaurant opposite that high building and across the water fountain, and the night views were reminiscent of Paris. You can never tire of Hoan Kiem Lake or what adorns it, no matter what time of day it is.

the fountain taken from Kim Quy Restaurant on the second floor

The Hidden Charm

Hong Ngoc Hotel

The view from our terrace

You may wish to visit their website. We were very spoiled when we were there.

One of the charms of Viet Nam is the people, so I do try, as often as I can, to talk to the people who host our stay and if they speak English, I do a little more than just listen, I take notes. And this was the case with the owner of this 5 chain hotel, of which this was the first.

Thang Hoang is 35 years old and started working at this very hotel 13 years ago doing housekeeping when his aunt owned the place. Today, he is impeccably dressed every morning and greets his guests individually. We received some special attention from him, as we were sent by Van at Aurora Travel. Yes, we had the penthouse suite on the fifth floor.

Back to Thang; he was born in Hai Duong, which is 50 kms from Ha Noi. He has two olders brothers, and a younger one who died. His father was a math teacher and his mother owned a trading company. By Viet Namese standards, this is very upper middle class. He finished high school and taught himself English, and his computer skills are also self-acquired. He admitted to me that not many Americans come through the hotel, but now that Viet Nam has joined the WTO, he expects there might be more.

choux à la crème

What I found particularly poignant was that his wife of eleven years was working in Taiwan, and her labor contract must have already expired, so I do hope she is back home with Thang and their two children. The Viet Namese are extremely hard working people and have little time to lament over what was. Their future is what interests them, and we could certainly learn from them when it comes to attitude.

The staff at Hong Ngoc Hotel was getting ready for Christmas. As we had our first breakfast the next morning in the dining room, we watched them put together Santa Claus outside the window. The breakfast spread is amazing, and I for one, fell in love with Viet Namese yogurt the first time I visited. The vanilla is much better than the strawberry, so have a go at it. As far as tea goes, if you are a conoisseur, forget about the tea here. The best you'll get is the Lipton Yellow, or the Viet Namese tea, which, frankly, has no taste. So, go for the coffee because it is smooth, aromatic and sweet.


you can also order eggs, sausages,
pancakes; you can see the yogurt
at the forefront


Elevators in general are very small, and at best 4 people without luggage can fit per trip. For the room we occupied, we had to climb a few short steps after the fifth floor stop where the double wooden door leads to the suite. There are no words to describe this room other than luxurious, and the sitting armchairs and table came right out of a dynastic movie. The photos do justice. If you come with a laptop, you'll have cable access in the room. There is also international direct phone dialing, a mini bar with liquor (individual bottles cost US$5.00), peanuts, other munchies (US$0.50/pack), and the small refrigerator is always stocked with bottled water.

the room before we moved in

As far as the hot water goes, in this particular hotel, you have to be lucky to catch a time when not too many folks are showering as you'll freeze to death. As customary, you will find all you need in the bathroom, including a hair dryer, toothbrushes and toothpaste. You may also order room service, which we did once or twice, but there are so many fabulous eateries around that you'd be missing out. The nem here is finger licking good.

This is also a place that has live entertainment in the evening. The musical instruments are hung on the wall above the stage. We entertained a business colleage of mine one evening here, but that's for another entry.

Heaven on Earth

As we age, our criteria for a "heavenly" experience is more demanding. What may have transported us to seventh heaven a decade ago may leave us completely blasé now. In 1999, when I landed in Bali, I thought I may have accidentally found heaven. That notion went straight to the devil when I woke up one morning and found myself in Ha Long Bay.

We had heard of people who had gone there, and cruised, some on barges, others on frigates, and none on the Emeraude. In fact, we probably were the first Americans to board this replica of the vessels that used to ply the waters of Hai Phong Harbor, in the early twentieth century, transporting the French Who's Who during their occupation of Viet Nam.

The Emeraude

The work that went into replicating that boat at the time cost US$2 million. More details about the vessel itself can be found in my journal called "Why the Emeraude". However, Ha Long Bay would still be heaven without it. As a matter of fact, after two separate cruises on the Emeraude, I now crave to experience it on one of the less luxurious, more authentics frigates that depart daily from Hai Phong Harbor.

This is more authentic and more Vietnamese

The fact that there really is no destination here is a joy. One never really tires at looking at the marvelous limestone monoliths which come in different shapes, sizes, and some even hold within their walls breathtaking grottos. We saw them in hazy weather, and in sunny weather and I found that the mystery and romance of Ha Long Bay is enhanced by the grayness of fog. Of course, a photographer's dream is probably Ha Long on a clear day, but there is a certain mystic quality to this world heritage sight when light is dim.

And they will stand here long after we are gone

As you approach the city, before you get a glimpse of the water, you can begin seeing these weird rocky formations framing the farmland. Oh yes, there are rice fields till the end of the world here. At first, they are not terribly impressive, but get progressively higher, wider, and shaped like some animals. In fact, the Viet Namese have dubbed a few of them (there are over 1900 of these in the Bay) according to their likenesses. Once aboard a vessel, and as the shore gets more distant, the quiet is almost eerie. The water is teal blue at times, at others it can turn transparent.

at times like a mirror

Because there are people who make the Bay their home, there will be areas that reflect what I call the "human footprint". The water is not as clean, but the houseboats are very colorful, and some are downright luxurious by fishermen's standards.

this is home for some

Naturally, when the Bay inhabitants spot the Emeraude, they all come in their canoes, and basket boats, some filled to the brim with all sorts of foods, drinks, souvenir items, seashells and some actually come to beg for money. Not the adults, but the children are made to do the bidding. We were told that the people who live in Ha Long Bay  are not poor. So I gave bananas, and whatever else I could find which I had brought from New York.

Chuck used to call this "Costco on Wheels"

There also reigns a surreal sensation of being surrounded by gigantic rocks jutting out of the sea that remind you of the smallness of humankind.

majestic and impenetrable

No matter how many people are on the ship, you feel singularly alone and in synergy with nature. The mundane and the pedestrian worries of the neurotic world have no place in Ha Long Bay. It's almost as if the limestones are laughing at you or showing off their staying power. You can wait for your breath to halt watching the sun set, or better yet, take a nap, have someone come to your cabin and give you a massage (which will force the nap) and wait for darkness.

the stillness is suffused in the orange light on sunset

Darkness in Ha Long Bay is total; it's intense and permeating. The only lights to be had are those on the curving deck; beyond that, the blackness of India ink could compete with the atmosphere. It's as if someone came and erased it all; the water, the rocks, the boats, the people, the sky and the clouds. Again, faced with the formidable, potent, relentless nature. Shall we have dinner now?

these chairs were right outside our cabin

What If Julia Child cooked for you?

Well, we all know that Julia Child is not of this world anymore, and she's somewhere cooking up a storm, with lots of wine whether or not the recipe calls for it. But make no mistake, the woman's reputation preceded her, and she was hailed as one of the world's greatest chefs. If you click on the link above, you'll find that the Smithsonian Institute has a website just for Julia!

So, now you've guessed that I'm going to talk about food, but not just any food. Our friends at Aurora Travel had managed a surprise lunch for us, which we were not going to forget for quite some time. They picked us up at our hotel, and off we went. Of course, we had no idea what or where or who at the time, but it made it that much more delicious and enjoyable.

the dining room

We had to go up a very narrow two flights of stairs, and entered the vestibule, from where you could see a huge dining room, with two of the longest dining tables you could imagine. The balcony door was open, and the area looked deserted. Our host was not to be seen for a few minutes, though her husband appeared shortly after we arrived. It's a good thing that we had bi-lingual escorts. I peered at the walls, and realized that Anthony Bourdain

had beat us to this place...darn that man.







No matter, I knew we would have stories to tell after we left this place. Let's get a little background on this famous lady. Pham Anh Tuyet is considered one of Viet Nam's national treasures (in Asia, one cannot be elevated to this status just by knowing how to do something; you really need to be extraordinary) in the art of cooking; she has her own TV show and has hosted culinary tours, and learned her trade through her mother. During Viet Nam's colonial era, in the 1930's, Thi Anh' mother was chef for the French Embassy. (and you know how finicky those French can be). She grew up in Ha Noi, and her restaurant is in the very heart of the city.

All sitting in great anticipation

She's very proud of the honor Viet Nam has bestowed upon her, and we took a picture of it below:



As everyone finds out sooner or later, Vietnamese hospitality goes beyond heartwarming. And that is probably the reason we found ourselves so drawn to this culture. Mrs. Pham is genuine, unaffected, and welcomed us into her home as if we had been family. The meal we were about to partake must have included so many courses, it is hard to remember them all. Every dish was eye candy, and melted in your mouth. Even the nem rolls which are so ubiquitous in Viet Nam were special coming from her oven.

Soup, nem rolls, rice noodles

chicken w/lemongrass

something amazing with peanut sauce

As she served the various dishes, she would tell us about her life, her daughter, whose pictures were on the wall. She seemed tireless. She looked so pleased everytime we showed appreciation for her delicacies. And then, surprise of all surprises, she had a bouquet of flowers for me! I was really touched by this gesture.

Viet Namese take flowers very seriously

In the photo below, you can see Mrs. Pham standing next to her husband, a man with an incredible white head of hair. To the left is Van, our magnificent counsel and friend from Aurora Travel.

It was a very difficult place to leave for more than just the food. Ann Tuyet wanted to teach me how to make a Viet Namese meal, and being a gourmet cook myself, I really thought the idea was fabulous. But this was Saturday, and we were leaving the next day. I was so very tempted to prolong this voyage, again, but wisdom prevented me from doing that. I promised that I'd be back and that we would go shopping together, at her favorite market down the street and cook together. To her credit, she came down the stairs to see us out. She was even concerned about my crossing the street on my own, and held my hand till I got into a taxi. Where else?

And of course, now that we knew where we had been, we did turn around and take the picture above.

They remind me of home

Although home for me has been the city of New York for the last 40 or so years, part of my heart and soul still yearns for Alexandria, Egypt. I am told that as soon as I go back for the first time, I can expect the aching to abate. I was surprised, as I engaged in the game of mapping my travels, that I had been in some 350 cities in the world, and yet, one country managed to envelop its aura around me like a noose. And that is Viet Nam. Let me share with you, graphically, some of the things which became so dear as they were all too familiar from another place and time.

I was in Saigon when I spotted these; I thought I was hallucinating, as I hadn't seen them since I had left Egypt. Of course, I bought some!!

Though I never did see chickens travelling by motorbike, I do remember them in cages being sold in the markets.

The only word for this is "moknessa"....

Having dinner or after dinner al fresco is the thing to do, whether in Hanoi, Saigon, Hue, Sapa or wherever you find yourself in Viet Nam. At times, it is too hot to go outside in the evenings, so you have to be rescued in a room with a/c.

The Pat'a'Chou bakery was across the street from our hotel in Saigon. As soon as they opened, we were the first to get the croissants, petits pains, and brioches before anyone else.

Spaghetti with bolognese sauce; I don't know how they learned, but they did....absolutely fabulous.

I don't have to tell you that seeing these men playing immediately brought backgammon to mind.

Except maybe for the pink color, these balconies could be part of a residential street in Alexandria. And of course, we'd have to get rid of the Viet Namese signs....

The shutters in the cities, especially in Hanoi, drove me crazy. I wanted to take a picture of all of them. Especially the green ones, since our house in Egypt had green shutters in every single room.

Yes, the most delicious oranges here are green.....

At this point in time, I had to go native. It was already my second trip to Viet Nam, and let me tell you, this stuff is heavy to carry. My hat is off to the women as I see them scurrying around the city with quite a load on their shoulders.

Depending upon your locale, this is iced coffee in the North, and white coffee in the South. Whatever you call it, it is better than the "café glacé" we used to crave from the Brazilian Coffee Shop in Alex.

The balconies are everywhere, and every building, old or new has got one. Some have cement walls, while others look like this one. This particular balcony was part of our penthouse room at the hotel and was replete with plants, a clothes hanger, and a chaise lounge. One had a fairly good view of Hanoi from this vantage point.

These humongous incense joss sticks are not ordinary; they smell like the "bakhour" we used to burn in Egypt to ward off the evil eye. I brought some back with me from the last trip, and enjoy it immensely.

And who can forget this sight? The wall which surrounded our garden in Alexandria was adorned with similar pieces of broken glass to deter thieves. This is very common in Viet Nam.

Sugar cane is available in Viet Nam just about anywhere, and you can often see people chewing on a section. What they have not yet learned to do, or at least I didn't see, is the art of sugar cane juice, which we loved so much in Egypt.

The trains and the railroad tracks; I remember when we lived in Alexandria, the rear of the house had balconies which faced the train tracks, just like these, and sometimes, I'd see kids playing or walking alongside them. And of course, the passing of the train was always a thrill for me, as I wondered what it was like to be inside. I made up for lost time; we traveled over 1500 miles by rail in Viet Nam.

This immediately struck me as déjà vu; looking down the stairs from the 5th floor where there is no elevator.

There are no closets in hotel rooms in Viet Nam; only very ornate armoires like this one, or larger. In my parents' room, there was an armoire similar to this one in color, but it was huge, with doors on both sides of a mirror which was in the center.

The chaise longues on Ha Long Bay are so reminiscent of the ones we used to have in Alexandria, though some had the actual seat made of very strong canvas instead of wooden slats.